Her partner, pat kingsbury, a seasoned crack firstascentionist. Jim, danny, greg, and scott also joined our motley crew to crush and be crushed by anything wider than your fist. With more than 50 female offwidth first ascents under her belt, pamela pack is known as the queen of offwidth climbing. Offwidth climbing with pamela shanti pack low gravity ascents. The indian creek art of offwidth climbing clinic, developed by offwidth expert pamela shanti pack, is a great way to get into offwidth climbing andor improve your offwidth skills. Dec 19, 2016 explore clarabobrycki3s board on the rock. Climb best of the blues 10b, the crack below with a small fist crack roof, to get to the belay cave for this monstrosity. Offwidth cracks are reviled by many climbers, because they are physically grueling, technically challenging, painful, and often perplexing. Huge offwidth downgrade supertopo rock climbing discussion. The womens indian creek art of offwidth climbing clinic, developed by offwidth master pamela shanti pack, is a great way to get into offwidth climbing andor improve your offwidth skills. Heres the forever war, the hardest offwidth at vedauwoo in wyoming, first ascended by pamela shanti pack last summer at 5.
Although tom the little bastard laybacked the final crack. Pamela pack phone, address, background info whitepages. Using you can explore all about sports in one website, watch sport videos, and expand your knowledge in a variety of sport topics. And the stupid rain held off just long enough for me to lace up my shoes, tie in, and get 2 off the ground. Pitch 3 ended up being a lowangle fourinch crack that transitions into an overhanging offwidth tofingers crack beneath a sandy and wildly flared offwidth roof with questionable gear. Succeeding on an offwidth wide crack is so much more rewarding. After the first warmup pitch, described by psp as a.
The american confesses to being obsessed with first ascents and much time is. Offwidth cracks are too narrow to fit your whole body into and too wide to use standard crack climbing techniques. Pamela pack is one of americas top off width climbers, she has climbed one of the hardest rated off width cracks, jihad in vedauwoo, wyoming. But pamela pack, one of the most accomplished offwidth climbers, male or female, in the world, has always been a bit of a masochist. And after seven years, and more than 15,000 feet of wide cracks i am still as passionate about offwidth as ever. Jason molina was van copilot and in it for the long haul with me. The mental and physical demands of offwidth climbing are grueling, and part of that is due to the intimidation and difficulty of protecting them.
Jun 07, 2017 pamela shanti pack is a professional climber who lives in moab and spends her summer vacations in the bering sea as an oceanic cartographer. Leavittation the origins of handstacking derek cheng. Pamela is related to alicia susanna ellenwood and anthony j ellenwood as well as 4 additional people. Jul 22, 20 i was feeling pretty donefor after the first two climbs. Crack attack pamela pack picked up the fringe pursuit of offwidth bouldering this summer. I mean, i follow a lot of pro athletes, and the only two that are silly enough to return the favor are pamela and brody leven. Meet pamela certification programs pilates equipment. Pamela shanti pack is wellknown for being one of the worlds foremost offwidth climbers, a type of climbing she describes as being totally different from other styles of climbing. A specialist in offwidth rock climbing who hasnt let gender define the sport. See more ideas about rock climbing, bouldering, climbing. I mean, elite offwidth climbers are climbing mids generally, when 5. This crack was wide enough that instead of using an arm bar, i used a real high chicken wing the entire way. A day with pamela shanti pack and devin fin sporter one.
The route was originally put up by bob scarpelli in 1988. When you sit up, be careful not to square your hips to the crack, which will inhibit progress. Tumblr is a place to express yourself, discover yourself, and bond over the stuff you love. An offwidth is a wide, offsized crack too big for fist jams yet too narrow to be a chimney. And by offwidth climbing, we mean pamela shanti pack. This boulder, colorado, climber has since rapidly dispensed with numerous vedauwoo, wyoming, bouldering testpieces including the warden extended start, 5. Pamela shanti pack is a professional climber who lives in moab and spends her summer vacations in the bering sea as an oceanic cartographer.
Mar 27, 2020 according to the gripped article, they didnt even try the crux pitch, but did indeed opt for the hand crack variation to the left. Apr 1, 2018 rock climbing, bouldering, ice climbing, and more climbing. Pamela nabbed the first ascent of the forever war in june of 2012. Apr 01, 2015 adidas outdoor, the athletic brand in the outdoors, announces offwidth climber pamela shanti pack, has joined its roster of athletes. A couple seasons ago pamela pack and andrew burr came up with a good ol desert challenge and tribute. Pamela pack got into wide crack climbing the hard way after a debilitating forearm injury left her unable to crimp, but placed no limitations on her hand stacking skills or indeed her ability to.
The indefatigable pamela pack has redpointed a 65foot, overhanging offwidth and squeeze chimney in zion national park that she rated solid 5. We used to say of a widening crack where inverting was necessary, thats not a good levitation size, the crack is defective, but i think shes looking at that and. Two years ago pamela pack an jay anderson dragged me out to an offwidth route in vedauwoo called the forever war 5. Pamela pack is one of americas top off width climbers, she has climbed one of the hardest rated off width cracks, jihad. According to the gripped article, they didnt even try the crux pitch, but did indeed opt for the hand crack variation to the left.
Pack calls leavitation the most groundbreaking technique in offwidth history. In this weeks friday flick pick, we join her as she achieves the first ascent of the kill artist 5. They have also lived in westfield, in and lemon grove, ca plus 2 other locations. Pamela pack got into wide crack climbing the hard way after a debilitating forearm injury left her unable to crimp, but placed no limitations on her hand stacking skills or. Select this result to view pamela joy pack s phone number, address, and more. The hardest offwidth crack in vedauwoo forever war youtube. This is the distinctive and impossible to mistake offwidth squeeze chimney roof. Offwidth rock climbing with pamela shanti pack voa connect. Now this is one of the stranger routes in vedauwoo.
Pamela shanti pack at the anchors after completing her new route, american horror story, 5. Watch her climbing technique as she follows cracks in the cliff face. Offwidth climbing with pamela shanti pack david sandel. Offwidth aficionado pamela shanti pack made the first ascent of american horror story, a 4pitch 5.
So are we basically working on a totally separate scale here. Pamela shanti pack born circa 1976 is an american rock climber who specializes in offwidth crack climbing. Persevering through the physical and emotional demands placed by offwidth enables me to explore, or experience, spaces mental and physical where other. So what do you do when the offwidth is so what do you do when the offwidth is 40m and you dont own or want to carry a. They kind of top out with century crack which is graded as 14b, but was the hardest offwidth, and the cutting edge. Great picture my wife got of me on this offwidth roof. Red bull illume is the worlds greatest adventure and action sports imagery contest. Sep 07, 2015 first, meet pamela and jay, he was there too, amongst others. Since 2008, shanti pack has achieved more than 50 first ascents of offwidth routes, including the first female ascent of lucille 5.
Im excited to have completed a project thats been a tremendous mental and physical battle for two seasons now. Some of you probably remember this film of pamela shanti pack making the first ascent of kill artist where there was some rather fantastic faffing on the crux pitch including a modified quickdraw in order clip a bolt round the edge of a large block whilst hanging in an inverted. Nov 26, 2009 the indefatigable pamela pack has redpointed a 65foot, overhanging offwidth and squeeze chimney in zion national park that she rated solid 5. Pamela had established the route just six months prior, and was keen on filling jay and i with horror stories of. The video of pamela shanti pack making the first ascent of her newest offwidth crack climb in the moab desert called am i evil. Whether its mapping and surveying the ocean floor off the coast of alaska, putting her body through six hours of training a day, or making a name for herself in the brutal world of offwidth climbing, she is no. Is that true, did they downrate a move they didnt even try. Offwidth climbing with pamela shanti pack low gravity. See more ideas about rock climbing, bouldering and climbing.
At first glance you wouldnt bet too much on pamela shanti pack climbing an offwidth crack. A new cam by a denver mechanical engineer, evan deis, is among the biggest ever built. Your first pitch of offwidth in nearly always a memorable experience. Its creek season which means long days and longer cracks. The art of offwidth climbing clinic with pamela shanti pack. Pamela pack got into wide crack climbing the hard way after a debilitating forearm injury left her unable to crimp, but placed no limitations on.
Feb 21, 2019 pamela pack is one of americas top off width climbers, she has climbed one of the hardest rated off width cracks, jihad in vedauwoo, wyoming. Ive really been confused ever since pamela decided to follow me back on twitter. She has made close to 80 first ascents, many of them in vedauwoo, wyoming. You can thoroughly enjoy some good crack climbing and still have no desire to climb offwidth why, hello me. May 24, 2019 the rarified world of hard offwidthing enjoyed a little dustup this month when tom randall of wide boyz fame posted a polite but insistent argument that pamela packs infamous routes dark passenger and kill artist were considerably easier than the posted grade and considerably safer than the hype implied. We were tipped off by pamela shanti pack, a pro climber who specializes in offwidth. Best known for tackling and establishing particularly difficult and spicy offwidth climbs, pamela shanti pack added yet another one to the list. Its where your interests connect you with your people. Pack grew up in middlebury, vermont as the daughter of poet robert pack. The number of people who try hard offwidth routes is an order of magnitude or more smaller than those who try other types of hard climbing. The wide boyz duo made the second ascent of the kill artist, a fourpitch route first climbed by scott massey, evan wisheropp and pamela pack in 2017. Invert offwidth techniques from pamela shanti pack. A great pitch which will only succumb to proper offwidth technique and some definite huff and puff and offwidth work ethic to get up it.
Frankly, actually wanting to climb offwidth is perplexing at the least to me. First, meet pamela and jay, he was there too, amongst others. Pamela shanti pack on the forever war, vedauwoo, wy. You not only have to thrutch and grovel your body up a wide crack, but also have to haul and plug heavy gear thats awkward to carry, challenging to place, and a pain in the butt to climb past. Great article in climbing magazine by pamela pack on using a calf lock in offwidth climbing and she is the queen of offwidths probably wont be offwidth and wont happen too soon, but i would like to build a crack machine into the support beam running the width of the garage. Taylor froelich most forms of rock climbing are a lot like dancing almost balletic in the delicate, precise, graceful moves involved. Clinics learn to chicken wing, bump cams, heeltoe, armbar, invert. Here are 5 tips from one of the best in the game to keep you coming back for more of the wide stuff. The rarified world of hard offwidthing enjoyed a little dustup this month when tom randall of wide boyz fame posted a polite but insistent argument that pamela pack s infamous routes dark passenger and kill artist were considerably easier than the posted grade and considerably safer than the hype implied supertopo and mountain project threads ensued and 10s of pages of witty.
Pamela pack repeats super hard off width, jihad epictv. Pamela pack climbs hardest offwidth at vedauwoo 26. Her amazing accomplishiments earned her the prestigious golden piton award for traditional climbing in 2009 for establishing the first ascent of gabriel 5. Her partner, pat kingsbury, a seasoned crack firstascentionist, commented that american horror story is the first traditional style offwidth to deserve the grade of 5.
I was feeling pretty donefor after the first two climbs. Offwidth aficionado pamela shanti pack made the first ascent of american. Pamela shanti pack is one of the top offwidth authorities in the world, with over 50 first ascents, including invert testpieces gabriel 5. Finding wide with offwidth master, pamela shanti pack by louder than eleven jun 17, 2016 friday flick pick, trad, videos watch as pamela shanti pack makes the first ascent of her latest offwidth. She has made close to 80 first ascents, 3 many of them in vedauwoo, wyoming. I couldnt say no, but was some what skeptical at the same time as craig defined offwidth and his routes are a testament to what is possible in the world of wide. This is a great way to get into offwidth climbing andor improve your offwidth skills. As we wrote at the time, its worth noting that the route warrants the r suffix which indicates that despite its two bolts the overhanging crack is considered dangerous. Our spring dates have been released for the art of offwidth clinics with offwidth climbing pamela shanti pack. The first pitch of muscle and fitness has a giant cleaver block at the base. Sep 23, 2015 two years ago pamela pack an jay anderson dragged me out to an offwidth route in vedauwoo called the forever war 5. Climbing offwidth pamela shanti pack pamela pack indian creek girlsgonewide camping trad. Since 2008, pamela has been on a mission to climb north americas most challenging inverted and vertical offwidth.
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